Sustainability in Fashion has been hot debate for years now. Companies have been slashed due to their practices in production, are they ethical? are they sustainable? How do they impact the environment? Due to global climate change this debate has become more and more important to the point where not only environmentalists are partitioning for a cleaner industry but where the consumer in now engaging in the demand for more ethical fashion. The strive for ethical fashion is the way of the future!
The problem lies in the question is sustainable fashion really sustainable? The answer to this can get extremely complex. However the result not only lies in the production of a garment but the consumer demand and government legislation. As designers we are continually striving for innovation and i feel that the innovation lies in new processes that stem from the need to be sustainable. Below i have briefly discussed these topics.
1. Local design;
We can reduce the carbon foot print through transportation costs buy striving for a local market. Designing for a local market instead of those overseas opens opportunity for a more personalised approach to the construction process. Being in touch with the needs of the consumer makes for a more appreciated product that can engage the consumers senses and desires. It would also help to slow fashion production cycles and create more personalised styles instead of globalised fashion trends.
2. Consumer Education;
The younger generation has become more aware of climate change and the impact the individual has on the environment. Information in regards to ethical practices is a subject that needs even more attention in the education system. Fast fashion has become so readily available that the consumer has become lazy and obliviant to the impact of buying one single T-Shirt in a chain store; teaching ethical values of the consumer in classes in schools can help the realisation of this impact. If consumer buying values change then the industry will then be forced to change. However how as designers can we help to generate this awareness?
3.Country Standards and legislation;
Legislation need to be tighter on chemicals used in the production cycle. The problem arises when one country allows certain chemicals but if the garment is sold in Australia does our legislation allow the same chemicals? How do we know where our garments are being made and what practices are they using? The tag may say MADE IN AUSTRALIA but if it is traced but to its origins we find that several countries took part in the process. The push for local design can help to eliminate this problem, however the point is legislation needs to be tighter.
4. Genuine innovation;
Hemp and bamboo or rayon and polyester?? Innovation in fabric technology has risen out of the strive for more sustainable fabrics that offer quality, durability and style. Which is better? On one hand we have the natural fabric that comes from a natural source such as cotton, wool, hemp and bamboo, although in reality they should be the better option the treatment that is given to the fabrics uses chemicals that are damaging to the environment. There is also an immense amount of water used to grow these crops and what about the transportation emissions taking the crop to the factory or that of harvesting? Then there are the synthetic fibres which they say are better because the fabric is constructed from start to finish in the one factory with supposedly better OH&S rules. Neither of these are completely viable but innovation won't stop there. it is in our culture to continue to find a better way.
5.After the purchase;
The major impact of a typical everyday piece of clothing arises in the laundering and after care stage rather than manufacturing and distribution. The consumer becomes responsible for the after life of the garment once the purchase has been made. Think about if the garment needs to be washed, tumble dried and ironed. This has a huge impact on the environment and it is one that is usually overlooked. Designers need to take into account the care of fabrics and use this to inform better choices.
In the meantime there are thing that we as designers can control such as the design process. The push for ethical and sustainable clothing pushes us to explore new avenues that we may never have thought of. I have listed simple ideas below that some design companies have already been using;
- Minimizing seams and finishing to reduce thread, time in production and machinery emissions.
- Better use of fabric width, allowing the width of fabric to inspire designs. Using wastage.
- Using natural dyes.
- Researching where your fabrics are coming from, making better choices.
- Classic styles with small proportions of trends
- Consumer participation, can they colour their garments more than once? throw them in the wash and start again? Getting better value for their money.
- Make on demand, personal attachment.
In conclusion, weather or not our goal of preserving our environment from global warming will be successful it is in human nature to continue to innovate and try to solve this problem. Designers need to adapt to the zeitgeist of our times, that is the need and want for a more sustainable global society. It is a chance to enjoy and engage in the process of clothing. If sustainable clothing ever makes a impact on the wider fashion market it will be the day when we see Eco fashion look desirable. When aesthetics are appealing to the consumer to generate the want because where there is a want there is a way.
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